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Abstract

Calls to improve labor conditions in global supply chains frequently urge more robust responsibility-taking by brands/buyers, various forms of state intervention, and respect for worker collective action. In this article, we examine perceptions of these paths to reform among workers and managers in Indonesia's export-oriented apparel sector during the COVID-19 pandemic. Extending research on labor regimes and global supply chains, we consider how both workplace cleavages and signals from buyers may shape local demands for reform. We use survey data from 96 factories to gauge perceptions among workers and managers, including a survey experiment on the effects of a distant brand/buyer pledge of support. Amidst conflicting interests and pandemic-era precarity, we find broad agreement among workers and managers on some measures, including local government intervention, general references to collective action, and even the contested issue of labor market flexibilization. A hypothetical promise of support from distant buyers had limited effects overall but did dampen some local demands among production workers. These findings imply that while combining responsible sourcing from above, mobilization from below, and state intervention is often desirable, buyer initiatives could hinder grassroots mobilization in some circumstances.

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